CBC Life49%
So you want to get rid of your front lawn? Here’s how to do it right 9%
By Luay Ghafari0%
6/25/2026, 9:48:02 PM
BS Summary: This article contains 10 faulty reasoning types, including Framing Effect, Overconfidence Bias, and Confirmation Bias, with Optimism Bias as the most egregious example at 10.3% saturation with 115 hits. Analysis detected 356 faulty-reasoning hits from 1,112 analyzed words, generating a BS Score of 25.7% and a BS Rank of 9% (19,990 of 21,886 articles). This article is better (less manipulative) than 91.30% of the article peer group.
The case for ditching the conventional lawn is well-established.
After all, turfgrass is a monoculture, which takes a lot of water, fertilizer and effort to keep lush and healthy — and robs pollinators of food and a habitat.
It’s also increasingly out of step with how many people, myself included, want to spend their time.
But generally, we also want a space that looks intentional, not abandoned, and that won't lead to a visit from bylaw enforcement.
That’s a reasonable goal, and the good news is it’s achievable with a bit of planning.
Before you pull up a single piece of turf, ask yourself two questions: How much time do I want to spend on this garden moving forward?
and What do I want from this space?
Then you can consider which approach to take: an edible garden, a mix of ornamental and native plants, low-maintenance hardscaping, or a combination of the three.
Option 1: Go edible
If you want your lawn replacement to be a productive garden, focus on high-yield crops.
Edible plants that spread easily, thrive in the heat and drought, and don’t need to be replanted each season are also smart choices.
Perennial herbs — such as thyme, oregano, sage, chives and lavender — are a good starting point.
They’re effective as ground cover because, over time, they’ll spread and fill in gaps.
They also tolerate poor soil and survive dry spells without much intervention.
(Mint, on the other hand, grows aggressively, so it’s best planted in a container.)
Asparagus and rhubarb take a couple of years to produce a decent harvest, but once established, require little upkeep.
They also add visual interest to your yard.
Once you’ve picked the bulk of your asparagus, the remaining stalks will fern out into soft, feathery branches.
Rhubarb, on the other hand, has large, architectural leaves, which will anchor any bed, even when its main growing season is done.
Aside from the produce they bear, fruit trees and berry shrubs — including blueberries, currants and gooseberries — give structure to yards and have esthetic appeal.
If you’re working with a smaller space, seek out dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties.
One caveat: keeping an edible garden tidy takes consistent time and attention.
If you’re not prepared to harvest regularly, stake your plants, manage sprawl, and keep the beds weeded, the alternatives below will be a better fit.
Option 2: Native and ornamental plants
If done well, a garden with native and low-maintenance ornamental plants can look as polished as a conventional grass lawn and requires a fraction of the time and supplies.
But if you don’t plan accordingly, it will look neglected, which will be more obvious in a front yard.
The first step in creating a garden that looks intentional is selecting the right kinds of plants.
Opt for species that are adapted to the climate where you live, not just ones you like the look of.
In many parts of North America, coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, prairie dropseed and native sedges are reliable pollinator-friendly choices, which don’t need a lot of water once established.
But you can find many more recommendations for your region from your local conservation authority or a nursery that specializes in native plants.
To save money, buy one or two large anchor plants and fill the rest of your space with smaller, less-expensive ones, which will catch up over time.
Plants sold in four-inch or one-gallon pots will thrive if they get enough water in the first season.
The trade-off is time — they will take two to three years to mature and reach the visual impact most people are after.
And finally, if you want a hands-off approach, mulch is essential.
Adding an eight- to 10-centimetre layer of undyed wood chips to your beds will keep weeds at bay, retain moisture, moderate soil temperature and give your yard a finished look.
Budget for this up front and plan to refresh it every year.
Option 3: Hardscape and ground cover
There’s no need to cover every square metre of your yard with plants.
Materials like stone, gravel and wood chips can serve you well and cut down on the area that needs tending.
Pea gravel is ideal for pathways and open areas.
It drains easily, involves little maintenance and will round out your planted areas.
The downside: it will shift on sloped ground and is an unstable surface to walk on.
Flagstones or stepping stones surrounded by gravel will give your place a clean, structured look.
They can also be used to build a path to your front door.
Using wood chips as ground cover is the cheapest option since you can often get them free or at a steep discount from local tree-care companies.
Mulch will also improve the health of your soil as it breaks down over time, adding organic matter, feeding beneficial microbes, and improving drainage.
And while it won’t look as refined as gravel or stone, it’ll fill in your space nicely and provide visual contrast with planted areas.
How the size of your yard factors in
For small yards, under 50 square metres, any of the above approaches will work, and you can even mix and match.
A blend of herbs, ornamentals and gravel or stone will transform your space quickly and at a reasonable cost.
For medium yards, from 50 to 150 square metres, think in zones.
You could create an edible garden in the sunniest spot, add native plants and ornamentals along the borders, and build a hardscape path.
Keep in mind you don’t have to do this all at once.
Converting your yard across two or three seasons, and letting each area establish itself before moving on to the next, will make the process manageable.
For larger yards, over 150 square metres, a combination of native plants and low-maintenance shrubs will be your best bet.
If you can afford it, working with a landscape designer in the initial stages is worth it, even if you do the planting yourself.
What about the neighbours?
Many cities have bylaws for what can be planted in a front yard.
Before you start, familiarize yourself with the rules.
Some communities have loosened restrictions or have grants supporting pollinator-friendly gardens.
Mulch, edging and a bit of structure can go a long way in creating a yard that looks intentional — and not as if you just stopped mowing and let the weeds take over.
Keep your borders crisp and your beds tidy in the early seasons while plants fill in, and your neighbours will be more likely to come around.
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